Monday, December 7, 2009

On The Road

September 3rd

I've taken to heckling vehicles that pass Sharky. Or ones that act like they're cool. Because they've got nothin' on our beast.

Oh you go around. But don't even pretend 'cause you know this shark better than you. That's right. You're just jealous. MmHmm.

***

There's a big divide between the front and the back, with stuff packed up allowing for only a small opening behind our seats, which Tim occasionally pokes his head through. Otherwise, two separate worlds.

At one stop, I catch a snippet from Tim: "I've failed at lots of aspects of fatherhood, but damned if I'll lose this one..."
I'm curious about the context, but the car starts up and closes the portal between the two dimensions.

***

We stop for fuel, wee, and beer. I came across a jug in the back this morning labeled with a "P" in masking tape. Which explains the drop off in wee-stops. Tisi and I have taken to throwing small bursts of training in at each stop. The drinking in the back goes on and on.
As the level of inebriation rises, so does the amount of effort required to wrangle the guys back into the car. Neither has their license and don't seem to grasp how much driving we're doing. Or don't care.
We've more of less agreed that Tisi will be the stern one, the organizer, so they don't feel ganged up on.

***

Tim has been in contact with Mort, the artistic director of the project, the one who brought this motley bunch together. We're meeting Mort in Yulara.
The myth of Mort increases with every story. He's magic and we're off to see The Wizard.
Yes. The Wizard of Oz.

I hope I'm Toto.

***

At some point, the ECON light has come on. We figure "econ" can only be a good thing.
We're taking the back roads through country towns for Tisi. Her grandfather ran the church in Balaklava; this is the route of her childhood.

Sharky climbs up a steep hill and at the top, we see it: a mini-ferry to cross the river. Never has one group of people been so giddy over a little punt. The ferryman indulges us in our photo shoot.
I wonder how his fares typically react to this transportation novelty.
***

That night in Port Augusta, our last taste of civilization for at least a month. A final stock-up: 2 new bras for Tisi, yoga mats, acidophillus, contact solution, dark chocolate, organic peanut butter, and lavender oil.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

So Much Circus

September 2nd

Two stops are timed perfect on today's route: we'll have tea with Stardust Circus in Robinvale, then roll into Mildura just in time for the Circus Oz show.

Stardust is a traditional (or Trad) circus, unlike Circus Oz, which is considered contemporary circus, like Cirque du Soleil. [Contemporary circus is huge in Australia.] We're going to see Pixie Robinson, Tim's sister-in-law and Grande Dame of Circus, who's trained scores of performers over the years. This is my Trad Circus Crash Course.

We pull onto the grounds and head over to Pixie's trailer. She's just finished giving one of the circus kids school lessons. The young girl scoops her books off the desk and leaves with a big hunk of meat Pixie has pulled out of the oven. She lays out a spread of food for us, which she apologizes for (it's delicious, if slightly haphazard -- after all, she wasn't expecting us).

Tim introduces me.
"So, you're the dancer..."
"It's been a while."
Tim asserts that in a few weeks, I'll be unrecognizable.
"Contemporary or classical?"
"Contemporary, mostly. But I'm trained in classical."

I mention that Tisi and I are thinking up an act for The Tilt Festival in Canberra mid-October. Tim looks to Pixie, then leans forward slightly. "Um, we have a show this Sunday."

It's Wednesday evening and the first I've heard of this. I sit dumbstruck and slightly slack-jawed as Pixie and Tim launch into circus gossip.

***

A little past 7pm, we're waiting outside a motel in Mildura. Tim is working on a room. Cal squints at the situation inside, "He has milk: we must have a room."

Sure enough, Tim returns carrying a couple of containers.
"Milk?"
"It's a motel; that's what they do," says Tim, confident that statement explains everything.

At The Arts Centre five minutes after the curtain went up, we're in the audience for Circus Oz courtesy of some sweet string-pulling by Tisi. I'm the only one of the group who hasn't seen the show at all -- the other 3 have seen it several times. Tisi gets a kick out of my reactions.

***

Jump back to earlier in the day while driving, two seemingly inconsequential events:
1. Silver and The Doc are put forth as potential names for our act [my initials, AG, are the elemental symbol for silver; "The Doc" is inspired by a childhood name Tisi's brother had for her]
2. While belting out tunes in Sharky's front seat, I comment that we've never done karaoke together and we should remedy that.

It's Wednesday night and Mildura would not be mistaken for a bumpin' town at the best of times. Tim and Cal are quite happy to drink at the first place we pass (a nice Italian restaurant), but Tisi and I are hoping for something a little more relaxed. We find it: the only Irish pub in town.
And tonight is karaoke.

Silver and The Doc sign up for Kung Fu Fighting. Our performance garners us drink tickets (awarded by audience applause).
We follow it up with a spectacular version of Shoop, the glory of which is lost on a large fragment due to their relative youth.
But we're still a hit.

I have a Texta. We tag a chair. Chat it up. Dance like silly people. Text Sally and Carlie about our performances, that we wish they were here, except that it's Mildura and no one should be here.



We're at the bar, waiting for drinks. A girl comes up and asks if either of us would like her rum and Coke. She promises there's nothing wrong with it: "I'm Catholic and studying medicine." Her boyfriend got it for her; she hasn't seen him in a while and really wants some action -- she has this drink and she'll be in no fit state.

***

My alarm goes off at 6:53am.

"Wait or roll out?"
"Let's go."
"I like your style."
"Who's idea was it for me to eat Doritos last night?"
"Yours. Well, the guys incited it. Or at least facilitated."
"I brushed my teeth twice and I can still taste them."
"I offered to make you a sandwich..."

A few blocks later, after I've loudly cursed Mildura and its founding:
"Who's idea was it to go for a run this morning?!"
"Yours."
"Right. From now on, my ideas get immediately vetoed."

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Analogue Texting

I jot down notes while driving. Safely, mind you. Of course, people who text & drive also claim it's completely safe.

I wouldn't text and drive. But analogue texting? Where's the harm in that?

***

Bumper sticker on a campervan
Adventure Before Dementia

[Note: This statement rhymes when read in an Aussie accent. Adven-cha.]

On a semi-trailer
Caution: Fertile Eggs Aboard

Sign outside the Auburn Bowling Club
Upcoming Events: dinner

The Border Ate My Produce

September 2nd

We wake up under a blanket of frost in the parking lot. A sign identifies the area/site/region/whatever as Beckom. Dreams of Le Groupe, and I wake up with a sore hip.

We pile into Sharky for another long day; luckily, both Tisi and I like driving. There's some nattering about us having taken the wrong turn.
Why were you listening to my directions? I was drunk.
You had the map. And said you knew where we were going.
So?


We stop in the next town to fill up. We're about to enter the Fruitfly Zone and are loathe to jettison our apple supply. Tisi has 5, I have 4, and Cal chokes back 1. Sure, chucking them out would have neatly avoided apple-induced stomach aches, but where's the challenge in that?

As we're set to head off, the passenger door refuses to close. Pull over in front of a motorcycle dealership, tools out, the guys have the inside panel of the door dismantled and repaired, while the girls practice handstands. It's now better than before as the previously not-so-functional window is now fully operational.

***

Through Griffith, the former Drug Capital of Australia.
Tisi: "I love cities with palm tree lined entrances that don't warrant them."

That's right, folk: don't let the palms fool you -- Griffith is not Beverly Hills.

***

Our garlic is confiscated at the South Australia border. We had it hanging from the roof in the back, my contribution to the nesting. The guard is very nice about it, and informs us that our celery is not contraband, but only after we've rabidly munched down a fair portion of it, clearly learning nothing from the morning's apple incident.

I love celery. We bought an impressive stalk and have vowed to consume it while it's fresh. The favorite flavoring options are a light dusting of salt & pepper or spread with a mixture of peanut butter and sweet chili sauce.

I like the leaves, Tisi doesn't; aren't we just a match made in heaven?

Wagga Wagga, Grong Grong

September 1st

Sharky gets some stares, let me tell you. From time to time on the inside, we forget what our little caravan looks like and the gawks are perplexing.

Tisi is all done up in a style she call roadtrip op-shop chic. "Did I tell you that I figured out what I have? Heart of a gypsy, soul of a housewife."

Looking at the fine homey set-up out back, I think that neatly sums up both of us.

Girls in the front -- we're sharing the driving* -- and boys in the back, drinking beer. We take a few Thelma and Louise shots, for good measure.

Through Wagga Wagga, we sleep under the stars at a rest stop. Some drunken backseat navigation resulted in a wrong turn at Narrangara.

On the upside, it brought it through Grong Grong.

Wagga Wagga, Grong Grong!


[*Although the guys purchased the vehicle, neither can drive. We assumed they were kidding when they waxed on about the bender they would be undertaking en route. Assumptions are never wise.]

The Packing

August 31st

"Dahling, it's our honeymoon!"
We've been referring to each other as 'wife' (or 'wifey' for more endearing occasions) and have decided that this adventure -- at least the drive out -- will be our official honeymoon.

We've popped into downtown Dapto for a little pre-desert op-shopping; Tisi feels the trip calls for a summer dress.

"We're so cute," she says, catching the reflection of us side-by-side in a passing bus.
She's absolutely right.

***

I've lost track of how many separate trips we've taken to The Big W, Coles, Safeway -- back and forth, again and again. We keeping thinking of forgotten necessities, misjudging how many tubs are required, suddenly deciding a pair of Volleys are essential, and so on.

That evening, on our final round, Tisi and I are in quite a state. Tisi's brain is pressing against her skull; I'm all foggy and bitten nails.

At my suggestion of eggs: "No eggs. We can get them in Port Augusta."
I can't argue: my thoughts refuse to focus into anything more detailed than no more, I can't do anymore.

In the grocery check-out line, one of us remembers headlamps. We push the heavily laden cart up to Big W, but it's now closed. Damn.

Out we go to the parking lot and Sharky. Tim and Cal pop out, fancy new headlamps switched on. Tisi and I lament our oversight. Tim tells us to look on our seats, there's a surprise: headlamps of our very own.

***

Tuesday morning.

The final pack is underway. Departure has been delayed until the mail arrives [Sharky's registration papers -- or reggos -- are, well, in the mail. Or somewhere. Uh... yeah]. While the boys lash things to the vehicle, Tisi and I play music in the lounge, she on ukelele, me on a mini-accordion that was tucked among the stacks (oh! if only I could bring it with me!).

We are by no means packing light: juggling gear, hula hoops, teeter board, stilts, a lyra, 3 unicycles, rigging, $200 of unroasted coffee beans (Sosi -- who's meeting us in Warburton -- is from Ethiopia and will be doing a traditional coffee ceremony), a knock-about table, scatter mats, handstand posts, hats, slack-wire, tight-rope, bamboo and skis for building "stuff," tools, plus camping gear, food, and clothes.

Sharky the Hectic-Mobile looks gorgeous in all its circus glory.


Thursday, November 26, 2009

Dapto

August 30th

Tisi is waiting for me on the platform.
Reunited at last! It feels like months.

***

Tim had been right about the train ride: the final leg of the 2hr journey -- beyond the northern beaches and after Sydney's center, south on the country lines -- is beautiful. Snaking around mountains, steep tumbling ravines, past tiny hamlets through groves of immense gum trees, rounding a bend to have the coastline and teal-blue ocean burst into view.

Still no kangaroos, though.

***

After an urgent bathroom dash (couldn't get my pack into the cubicles on the train -- and by "couldn't" I mean, couldn't be bothered), we're sitting on the bench, getting up to speed. Tisi is looking a touch shell-shocked. All she'll let on is that Sharky the Hectic-Mobile needs some "feminine sensibility for organization."

Tim and Callan barrel around the corner. "Hey! Hey! We were wondering what had happened to you!" I looked at Tisi, having assumed she came on her own. A sigh and a strained smile, she looked tired. Fair enough, having come straight from life in Melbourne only yesterday.

***

Sharky the Hectic-Mobile is waiting in front of the house, gleaming orange glory in the afternoon light. A full tour is given: Tim installed the bench seat and seat-belts in the back; things have been tuned up, repainted, and thoroughly cleaned. Much focus is placed on the orange hubcaps. These, I'm told, have made all the difference. All the difference.

Mort painted a beautiful mini-mural of a shark on the side before he left. The boys are so proud of Sharky (with good reason) and are ultra-excited to show it off. I'm slightly apprehensive about driving the beast; it's massive, tall and clunky, no visibility out the back, and -- my favorite -- there hadn't been enough time to install a proper bull bar. 3000km? I'm skeptical, but the repeated assurance is that this -Mobile is all on the up and up.

***

Tim suggests a quick beach excursion. As we jump into Sharky, he hands me and Tisi each a colorful towel his mother had found us for our journey.
"Great. Always pack your towel: covered. Now all that's left: Don't Panic."
Tisi approves of the reference. Yet another reason why it's love.

Upon returning to the house post-swim, Tim can't find his phone. Sharky is searched, but Tim is quite certain he left it at the beach. It's OK, he tells us, because he wants to get a new one. But Tisi and I determine it's a mission and head back to the beach while Tim makes dinner.

We retrace our steps along the sand to where we dropped our stuff, with me repeatedly ringing Tim's number.
"Did you hear that?" asks Tisi, "I'm pretty sure I head something."
I'm considerably more skeptical, barely able to hear her over the wind and the surf.

But then, I do hear something! I start digging and, sure enough, Tim's phone! Tisi turns around in time to catch my victory pose: on knees, head back, phone held high, silhouetted against the sunset (there's a photo of this somewhere -- yes, we recreated the event for documentation purposes).

Who could ask for a better omen?! We haven't even left yet and already, we're scoring a 100% success rate on all projects undertaken.

***

The house is packed with bodies and things. Tim, his wife, and two sons, me and Tisi in the lounge, Tim's parents in the semi-attached bungalow, Zelda the Dog.
But it's the piles and piles of stuff, floor to ceiling, that's mind-boggling. I have never seen so many items jammed into so little space. My brain is having fantasies of organizational possibilities. The junk! The treasures! The bowl of tadpoles outside the backdoor!

I spend the evening on a stool at the end of the kitchen counter, sitting very, very still.
The light in the lounge in on a timer that can't be switched off.
We leave in a day.

***

That night, I dream of the Social Research Center and wake up with the ear plugs in my hand.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Something Big

August 30th

Speaking to Kate, "It's kind of like being at a health resort. Right now, I'm drinking this killer green smoothie. Lucas is gonna have me all fixed up for the desert."
"Fixed up? Ali, are you a bike?"

If anyone could help insure top superhero pre-desert-adventure health in 5 days, it's Lucas. He refers to the state as "ninja" ("Jedi" being the next and near-supreme level). Seaweed, coconut oil, energized water, nuts, seeds, and mystery teas. So much fresh fruit and veggies, I AM Captain Vegetable. Plenty of sleep, lots of sunshine, and a good dose of alone time (which will be a rare commodity in the coming weeks).

***

There's no doubt that I'm an outrageously blessed individual, but in the past few weeks, I've been supported to such an extent, I barely touch the ground. Half a lifetime could be spent trying to return these angelic favors, and I could still fall short. The only hope is to express gratitude and love at every turn: thank you, thank you.

I'm going into Something Big; the sense of this builds each day. Maybe that's why the seen and unseen help and guidance has been flooding in at an enhanced rate. It's not exactly excitement, anxiety, or even anticipation (though I'm feeling some of those, too); it's more like the quiet electricity before a storm. A change in air pressure. (Kate asked if it was ear wax). Meeting an angel or Odin. Something Big. I just don't know what yet.

The Sunshine Coast: Departure

August 23rd

My last day on The Sunshine Coast. I go swimming four times and do my laundry so it will smell like the beach, specifically Peregian, which smells bright and sunny and perfectly content.

I get a big kick out of other people's excitement when I talk about going to Warburton, this shared energy. While saying 'bye, Tom is near giddy when he asks if I'm excited about the adventure.

***

Sometimes, typically after a short amount of sleep, I'll experience that feeling of Instant Awake -- no foggy brain, no body grogginess.

It's around 3:40am, and I am awake. I scurry around, getting my things organized and into the car. Kellie drives to where we're meeting her parents. Hellos, goodbyes, and I'm in the back with Rod the Dog on the 11-hr drive South.
It's 4:16am

Kellie's parents are very nice. Her mom is sweet and her dad, well.... her dad is a lot. He is The Aussie Dad, worthy of The Castle. He gives us regular temperature updates -- "10 o'clock and 32.5 degrees" -- and when Mom tells Kellie's sister on the phone that we left at quarter past 4, Dad quickly and loudly corrects her: 4:16. He's not trying to be funny; precision and accuracy are dead important.

But all that really matters is that I got into a car, was deposited 11hrs later at Hornsby station, picked up 20 minutes after that outside Roseville station, and was on the couch in Beacon Hill drinking one of Lucas's magical green smoothies in no time.

Ah yes, I am the luckiest person you know.

The Sunshine Coast: The Party

August 22nd

Peter -- Tom's neighbor -- is having one of the full day shindigs he's known for, kicking off with his famous pancakes (I think the secret's in the sesame seeds). The main room is set up with a huge assortment of instruments, amps, and mics. People rotate between playing and socializing on the deck.

The general consensus on my neck is that the pain has emotional roots. Tears that spring up when Malika, a former massage therapist, tries her hand at it, seem to also point in that direction.
And here I am, on a sunny Saturday, surrounded by a group of beautiful women of all ages I've only just met. The men are inside playing music. Bobbie has her arm around my shoulder and Sue leans over to tell me she has chocolate.

***

After the sun goes down, the party continues and I head over to Tom's place for dinner, wine and Internet. I watch as he makes a what-do-I-have-in-the-cupboard on-pot tuna pasta; we have rather similar cooking styles. He starts serving it up and pauses mid-spoonful, "You do eat fish, right?"

I grill him about growing up in East Germany, about what it was like being a teenager when the wall came down. I head off before 10am: an early night as Tom has to be up for the farmers' market by 4am. Tom, it's not a far walk, I'll be fine. No, it's a nice night, I want to walk.

En route, I call my folks and, slightly intoxicated, rave on and on to my dad about how big the sky is here. I mean, BIG! And speculate on the constellations I'm looking at. And whether Venus is still considered the Morning Star in the Southern Hemisphere. And how can people navigate without Polaris. How?!

Meanwhile, Kellie has arrived home from work to find me not there. And has learned, upon speaking to Tom, that I'm on my way ("You let her walk?!"). She calls once. No answer (I'm talking to my parents). She leaves a message. She calls again: no answer (I'm likely mid-rant about how The Southern Cross has nothing on The Big Dipper) and leaves another message. By the time I get to the apartment, she's getting her keys so she can drive around to find me.

I feel bad that my insistence on walking caused her undue worry. And try to make up for it by telling her how big the sky is here.
I mean, Really Big!

The Sunshine Coast: Stars and Neighbors

August 21st

Kellie's neighbor stops to share a few pleasantries: the weather, the water, no whales.
"I lived in Canada. In a shit-town in Ontario."
"What one?"
"London."
"No! Why?! I know people from London. I've even been there. Once."
"Only love brings you to live in London, Ontario."

When Kellie moved in, she asked her neighbor to let her know whether there was anything she could do. Being neighborly and whatnot. Her neighbor informed her that she's highly sensitive to sound, and the metal toilet roll holder attached to the shared cement-block wall was an extreme irritant and to "just, you know, be aware of it, I suppose...."
Kellie took it off and gave it to her neighbor as an offering of goodwill.

***

Tom picks me up so I can take in some sights. We head to the National Park and I see a goanna (it's like a mini-dinosaur!). Tom's bag is stolen out of the truck and we run around for a bit, dealing with that "shmozzle" (as Tom refers to it).

At sunset, I go for a long walk on the beach and, after dark, see the most perfect shooting star.

That night, my dreams have a large cast of characters -- friends, family, familiar faces -- all coming by to say hello and wish me well.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

The Sunshine Coast: Lazy Days

August 20th

After a walk on the beach, Gil heads back to Brisbane shortly after noon; his band has a show tonight and there's business to attend to. He does not want to go: how could he? This place is Paradise! I can't understand why the whole world isn't desperate to live on the Sunshine Coast. Maybe I haven't travelled enough yet.

Kellie is disappointed she has to work most of the time I'm here (she took time off to spend with Tom post-Ekka); she calls or messages every couple hours to make sure I'm OK, not too hungry or bored.

My neck is still angry, so I spend the heat of the afternoon lying on the floor reading, looking out to the water from time to time hoping to see whales, which are currently in the area.

No whales.
For that matter, no kangaroos. Over 6 months in this country, I have not seen a single kangaroo. People (Australians) are shocked when they hear this. I, however, am beginning to suspect the roos are in line with the drop bears.

***
Kellie is going to stay at Tom's, but is concerned I'll be scared. I try to explain what an amazing gift it is to have a place to myself; the last time was mid-February.
Secretly, I love her doting over me.

And this is how I spend my time on The Sunshine Coast: swim, read, run, swim, walk, read, bike, swim, swim, read.

The weather is mind-boggling beautiful, and the hours drip by.

The Sunshine Coast: Travellers' Karma

August 19th
I am the luckiest person you know.

"Tom! You'll never guess: I mentioned to Gil last night about heading to Noosa -- he has Wednesday/Thursday off and offered to drive!"

"I gotta say, Little Sister, you're very good at manifesting stuff."

The dilemma had been whether to catch a lift up the Sunshine Coast on Sunday with the guys or try to find a ride mid-week. The latter was ideal, since Tom was already "knackered" (which cracks me up in his German accent) a few 16-hr days into The Ekka and was hoping for a little quiet time before hosting an occasionally rambunctious Canadian.

And so here I am, Wednesday morning, bag packed and slung on my back, distinctly more compact since a few items were jettisoned. While talking to Sally and Carlie, I have a moment of hesitation: the plan is to be back in Brisbane by Sunday, then head south, arriving in Sydney the following weekend. It would therefore make sense to take Carlie's book -- which I had nearly finished -- and not lug all my belongings with me.
But when is logic fun?
[Answer: When it's propositional logic, and only if you're a nerd.]

***

"Do you have any CDs?"
"I have Bon Iver..."
Raised eyebrow. Indie rock is not Gil's thing.
"... and a mix of gangsta rap."
Sidelong quizzical look.

I hand him the burned CD labelled That Gangsta Shit. Gil opens his mouth to say something, thinks better of it, and puts in the CD. "Born Killer" starts, the van's stereo just able to handle the bass.

My friend Sam sent the CD from Thailand; it ranks high on the list of Best Things I've Received in the Mail.

We pull into Tom's mid-afternoon and head to the beach for a quick swim.
I love the way the sand squeaks. Gil tells me that for the longest time, he thought all sand squeaked; that was just how it was.

Sitting on the beach, I'm talking through possible action plans. I hadn't taken into account how far Sydney is from Byron Bay, where I had been hoping to hang-out for a few days. The amount of bus travel isn't appealing. Kellie, Tom's girlfriend, catches part of the story: turns out her parents are up visiting her sister. Her dad drove so he could bring the dog and they're heading back Monday.

"They drive right past Sydney; I know they'll take you."

Seems as though I don't even have to try anymore.

They say nobody likes a show-off, Universe, but if You wanna to keep this pace up, I've got zero complaints.

***

Tom and Kellie are amazing and abundantly generous, the type of people I aspire to be. While Kellie makes dinner, Tom does acupuncture on my neck, the left side of which decided to throw a fit yesterday morning.

When I met Tom in Melbourne early April, he had only recently become involved with Kellie; every time he spoke about her, it was with the fluttering excitement that comes with the first blush of a new relationship. So I was a little nervous to meet her a week ago at the Ekka. But only momentarily, because in an instant we're sitting at the back of Divine Donuts swapping tales over wine and cheese. And it's shortly decided that I will definitely come to Peregian (near Noosa) and stay at her place. After all, she has a spare room.

After dinner, Gil and I head to Kellie's place, while she stays at Tom's. Her apartment is a sweet little place, not even a five minute walk from the beach. It's insisted that I make myself at home: Kellie has travelled extensively, only recently becoming more settled, and is very happy for the chance to be on the flip side of Travellers' Karma.

Monday, October 12, 2009

And How

August 16th

"Every time I go around, it's like a new world!"
This from the drunk ocker as he makes the rounds chatting up all the tables, circulating like the host of a party.

Gil and his friend Mohammed came to pick me up this afternoon and with Sipola, have been showing me the Brisbane sights. [Note: This does not take particularly long.] At Kangaroo Point, I cause Mohammed to squeal and hop backwards over the railing: he's terrified of heights and I'm standing too close to the edge.

The boys drop me back at the house later that evening and invite themselves in for tea.

"I think it's very cute that you've been adopted by two large black men in a matter of days," says Sally upon my return.

The boys also like this.
Me?
Everything is just great.

Stephan's Skyneedle

The Brisbane night sky is lit up by the lights of Stephan's looming Skyneedle. People either love it or hate it. And the only reason they love it is purely for kitsch value [which is, admittedly, through the roof].

Built for Expo '88, it was later purchsed by Stephan, a reknown Brisbane hairdresser. Sally and I have been tossing around ideas for a screenplay (a trilogy is the present thinking) featuring Stephan as a meglomaniacal villain.
We're fairly certain we'll be keen to portray himself.

Stefan's Skyneedle has a "Needless Love and Appreciation Society" on Facebook -- I'm one of the 50 members -- and, of course, a Wikipedia page.

The Ekka: The Wrap Up

My last day at The Ekka is relatively uneventful. Although still as aggressive as ever, Terry is horrific at a marginally slower rate. She must be tired. I encourage her to take breaks. Regularly.

Peter is helping out for a bit. I'm watching with curiosity as the owner of the coffee stall opposite us is scribbling madly on a piece of paper. I wonder aloud what he's writing.
"He's probably bipolar," says Peter the Devotee without batting an eye.

***

Tonight, I'm going to an Aboriginal & Islander Queer Night with Carlie and Sally. The Ekka folk repeatedly inquire about my post-work plans. Taking my audience into consideration, I answer a party with friends and leave it at that.

Friday, October 9, 2009

The Ekka: Day/Night

August 14th

Terry is thoroughly enjoying making up the nachos for the eating contest.
She’s telling me for the 6th time that she simply cannot eat spicy food, while drowning the chips in chillies and Tabasco sauce.
The glee with which she yearns to see the contestants suffer at her hands is moderately disturbing.

This is the second time I watch her go through this procedure, repeating yesterday’s speech verbatim. “Wait until tomorrow. They won’t know what hit them! Ooo, I want to see their faces. Maybe I should pick up some extras peppers after work...”

She laughs. I shudder.

***

Terry has known Peter and Leslie for over 20 years. She makes a reference to them as Devotees.
“Devotees of what?”
“I dunno, some sort of Indian thing. The way you can tell is if they’re wearing beads.”

Terry would rather I join in with her as she criticizes and bitches about every person within our view; she’s told me as much.
And also how much fun it was working with one of the Devotees last weekend because that’s all the two of them did.
“She teaches yoga and is really into natural healing, but she just loves being nasty about people.”

I make a weak excuse of it being un-Canadian behavior, but Terry’s passed her judgement on me: Canadian or not, I am no fun.

***

Terry’s approach to customer service: everyone who asks for anything has the IQ of a Dagwood dog and should be spoken to with unparalleled levels of condescension.

[Her prowess is astounding, and that’s coming from someone who worked in an organic fair-trade café, where hipster blasé superiority is du rigeur. Just ask Questionable Content.]

I start counting down the hours shortly after 1:30pm. Not a good sign.

***

Gil comes to rescue me at 5pm; I rustled him up a free pass. I am a carny, after all.

We ride the chairlift that crosses the Show grounds. Gil’s all excited at first, swinging his legs and such, but then quickly gets very still and quiet. He tells me in a hushed tone that he’s a little bit afraid of heights.

We check out all the animals – I hug a llama around it’s neck – finishing in the animal nursery. I start off playing with a sweet kid (of the goat variety) who’s quite taken with chewing my hair. I sort of cradle her in my arms and she loves it.
And then, a while later, I figure, “Well, I'll just carry her around with me...”

“You have to put the goat down,” says one of the nursery workers brusquely.
“Oh, of course.”
I turn to Gil, “But she really likes me.”

As we're walking out, Gil asks if I was thinking of taking my goat with me.
“You were, weren't you?”
“Maybe.”

***

We're in the main arena, watching the events leading up to the fireworks. [There are fireworks every night. Have I mentioned that I love the Ekka?]

New South Wales vs Queensland in the wood chopping contest. It's a serious nail-bitter: NSW gets a knot early on, giving QLD a serious lead, but then NSW flies up from behind to take the win.
I've never been so excited about anything lumber-related in my entire life, with fairly good reason.

Next, the horse-jumping/stock car relay race. I know! Each team member goes through the jump course, leaps off the horse, runs to the car, which does a lap, then jumps out and runs back to tag the next person. Queensland is victorious.

Then: a car-drifting race, synchronized ute [pick-up truck] driving (enough to make Busby Berkeley weep!), mad motocross jumps, astounding horse tricks, a tent pegging contest (tent-peg-removal-on-horseback-via-jousting-lance, which is a real sport here), and an ancient fire truck from I believe 1911 outfitted with a jet engine.

By the time the fireworks start, my voice is nearly gone.
And as is always the case with me and fireworks, each one is my absolute favorite.

“That’s a Good Lesson for Everyone.”

I’m out for a drink with Gil, Tisi’s big brother. He’s the last piece of The Hatcher Family puzzle. I’d met Sipola, Tisi’s younger sister, earlier in the week and her parents stayed with us in Melbourne.

And it’s official: they’re all fantastic, without exception.

***

An older man comes over selling chocolate for some fundraiser or other. Gil buys a macadamia nut bar. After the man leaves, Gil ponders aloud whether the charity was legit, then concedes he’s not too fussed if it isn’t, since he got something in the exchange.

He goes on to tell me about a time he and a friend were approached by a guy who wanted $5 for drugs.

“So I said I’d give him $5 for his shoes.”

The friend, who until this point has been enraptured as Gil waxed on about his personal philosophy, was disgusted that Gil actually took the shoes.
He was disenchanted with the religion. I told him he could still be my disciple, but he ran away.
I wasn’t going to just give the guy 5 dollars; there needs to be some kind of exchange. That’s a good lesson for everyone. The shoes are 1½ sizes too small. I still wear them. I get blisters.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

The Ekka: Mexicantina

August 13th

Thursday. I turn up at the Show grounds early. After three days, my body is objecting less to both the hilly terrain and separation from The Silver Steed (and here I’d thought it was only my heart and soul that loved that glorious bike so dearly).
Plenty of time for a morning visit to the Poultry Pavilion.

Did I mention that I love the Ekka?

Things at The Mexicantina are slow; it’ll be just me and Terry for the next three days. Peter, his wife Leslie, and Abby are split between the two other stands.

Terry is a brassy broad in her mid-40’s. She’s loud, all fake-nails & frosted-lipstick, running a steady commentary on nearly every being that saunters by: about all the bogans (funny, as I somewhat considered her eligible for bogan-status); the scantily clad teens dressed like “thur givin’ it away;” how obese people repulse her -- “I don’t know what it is, but they make me feel physically ill… oh! There’s another one! No, I can’t look.”

None of this is said quietly.
I’m smiling and nodding to be polite, trying my very hardest not to pass judgement on her. And I’m doing surprisingly well.
Until around midday, when Terry – speaking to a customer – says, “Well, I’m not racist, but…”

At this moment, I’m making a bean burrito, my back to her, and I freeze. I remember a comedian’s bit – maybe Chapelle or Chris Rock – about how the words I’m-not-a-racist-but are without exception followed by a horrifically racist statement.

Terry does not disappoint.

From this point on, it is increasingly difficult not to judge Terry for all her outrageously judgemental comments. She decides I can’t take a proper break, despite the relatively easy pace of the day. (Later, Peter and Leslie separately ask whether I had a break. They each knowingly roll their eyes and say to make sure I do the next two days.)

I crack at 5:20, enveloped by a grumbly rain cloud of surliness. At 6pm on the dot, I take off my apron and say 'bye without offering the standard polite “is there anything you need me to do?” – secretly hoping that yes, yes there are helpful things I could do before leaving.

I trudge through the evening crowds to Divine Donuts.
“Hey Sunshine!”
“I need a hug.”
“Oooh. Do you also need wine?”
“Yes.”
In an instant, I’m seated on a crate, glass of locally-made wine in one hand, telling Tom and D’Jean about my day in the International Food area while they start to close up.

“I think I also need a chocolate donut without the donut.”
Tom smiles and comes over to my crate, carrying the pump they use to inject organic Belgian chocolate into the donuts.
“Open up.”

My chore in the clean-up is to lick the chocolate spoon and spatula. A dough ball is lobbed over and makes the most delightful thwack as it hits my leg.

The Ekka: Trades-ies

August 12th

Tom’s concerned: it’s his first time at The Ekka and business is much slower than he was expecting. Attendance is generally down (Swine flu? Hiked admission rates? Theories abound) and all the vendors are feeling pinched. Tom had assumed The Show would at very least be on par with other festivals Divine Donuts has been at and staffed it accordingly.
No matter how much I try to reassure him that I don't need buckets of hours, he still feels responsible for me, that I came all the way to Brisbane for work that may not be available (I repeat several times it was an excuse to get to Queensland and be a carny).
Then, luck of luck, word comes by Tom’s friend Nemo that a neighboring stall is desperately short staffed for tomorrow.
And Wednesday is Show Day!

All the states in Australia are allotted the same number of statutory holidays. So where Victoria has a day for the races (for The Melbourne Cup, the city has the day off work, gets dressed up, the girls put on beautiful hats, and everyone goes to the races), all the towns and cities in Queensland have a Show Day. No school, businesses close, and everyone hits the Show grounds. But unlike The Races, no one gets dressed up and the girls do not wear beautiful hats.

Show Day passes in a blur of people and vegetarian Mexican food. Never have 9 hours disappeared quite so quickly. There are four of us dishin’ up tucker nearly non-stop. When Peter, the owner, says they could definitely use my help for the rest of the week, it’s good news all around.

***

I arrive back at Sally and Carlie’s properly beat, the bike ride home the final nudge. Brisbane has some bastard hills, including a long gradual one on the last stretch. The house is at the bottom of the most ridiculous slope imaginable; I can barely walk up it in the mornings (no exaggeration). But on the way home, it’s bliss. The thought of it makes the slow climb possible. At the top of Jones street, deep breath and down, so fast it makes me giggle every time. I coast far beyond the house, chuck a u-ey [as they say here], and head back.

***

The ladies are also tuckered. We’re playing on youtube, relishing the video for “Love is a Battlefield,” deeply mesmerized by Pat Benetar’s ‘angry shimmies’ [check it out: you will not be disappointed!].
The Internet trail leads to another Australian mystery: The Rock Eisteddfod. This has been introduced to me before and, much like The Show Bag, I don’t get it. We watch clips, I have the girls explain it a couple times, we Wikipedia it, but The Rock Eisteddfod is beyond me. My Canadian brain can’t make sense of it and all the excitement it carries. And while it’s no angry shimmy, The Rock Eisteddfod is pretty damn good.

Monday, August 31, 2009

Behind the Scenes

I meet up with Tim and Callan, the guys we're driving with out to the desert. They're performing at the Ekka as The Leaping Loonies.
We're meant to be going over plans for the upcoming adventure. But first, the boys vent about their performing conditions.
One of the stages they're scheduled on is too small for the tumbling in their act.
The tech dudes are dinks.
Especially the sound guy, who's not only a dink, but doesn't know what he's doing.

But what really has them in a tizzy is that they're sharing a dressing room with kids. They have been informed they can't get changed. In their dressing room. Because of the children.

Tim's solution: go outside on the grass and strip down.
In front of everyone's children.
Take that, the Ekka!

The Ekka: Day 1

I've finished my first day of work and am wandering the grounds of The Ekka. The smell of deep fried food, diesel, and horse manure mingle delightfully in the air. At one point, walking through the midway, assaulted by flashing lights and blaring sounds, I get a little misty-eyed with bliss.

Sally described the Ekka as "perfectly mediocre."
Perfectly mediocre.
Who would want it any other way?

***

Earlier that day, I inadvertently snuck into the Ekka.
I was to meet Tom at Gate 1 and he'd give me the necessary day pass to get in. I follow my Google route from West End through the centre of Brisbane, past The Valley and kinda-sorta around a barrier-type thing. No one bats an eye and I coast by what look very much like Exhibition-esque buildings and stands.
Almost as though I were inside the grounds. Huh.

After a few requests for directions, I'm at Gate 1, calling Tom to come get me. He finds me leaned up against my bike, shades on, looking all kinds of chill, on the Ekka side of the gate.
"You're inside already? How did you get in?"
"Oh... oh! Yeah, I thought maybe I was... I don't quite know how; I just sort of ended up here."
What's funny is that it's true on multiple levels.

***

The Show crowd -- Queensland country folk and bogans a-plenty -- don't know what to make of the organic doughnut concept.
I'm informed that it is essential to my Ekka experience to consume a Dagwood Dog with sauce -- essentially, a mega corndog smothered in ketchup, in all its beige-y glory.
I don't.

I do, however, visit The Showbag Pavilion to further my understanding of the Show Bag.
And try my hand at hustling some fellow carnies on Sideshow Alley.

And I love the Ekka, in all its perfect mediocrity.

The Ekka

August 10th

The Queensland Royal Show.
The Ekka.
It can only be good.

I'm working for my friend Tom's business, Divine Donuts, serving up organic coffee and doughnuts. Perhaps not your typical carny fare, but I'm claiming carny status nonetheless.

I have died and gone to heaven.
I don't know exactly what it says about me that my vision of a personal heaven is working at an Exhibition. But it can only be good.

What sparked this childhood dream? Could have been my dad's reading of Charlotte's Web a couple times when I was young. [There are no piglets at the Ekka this year for fear that they'll catch swine flu from the humans.] I have sparkling clear memories of my first Albert County Fair: the animals, candy apples, a ride on the Ferris Wheel at night.

Then there was the herald of summer: The Bill Lynch Show. The midway. We never knew exactly when it was coming to town -- The Blinch, as my brother and I called it -- and then one day, bam! it was there. The Coliseum parking lot transformed, full of rides and stands and trailers.
Just driving past, I could feel the stickiness of the ground under my feet, the hot sweet smell of fresh candy floss, the teenage screams from The Zipper, the unnatural scrawniness of the AC/DC lovin' operator of The Gravitron, sporting his Confederate flag sleeveless shirt.
And at night: the lights, oh the lights!

One summer, a carny at the Ex in Toronto showed me the trick to his particular game, having me practice over and over until I could get it right, explaining the importance of confidence and nonchalance in equal measures. I left instilled with a sense of innate carny-potential and spent the remainder of our family vacation working on my carny barking skills, no doubt to the delight of my parents. After all, what more could a mum and dad want for their 11 year old daughter?

***

"What are Show Bags?"
"How can you not know what Show Bags are?!"
"Um... "

Carlie and Sally are shocked -- shocked! -- my I-don't-think-we-have-them-in-Canada explanation hardly satisfactory. Clearly, I must be mistaken.

"They're the best part of the Ekka! When you're a kid, you spend ages going through the Show Bag list in the newspaper..."
"The newspaper?"
"Yeah! So you can decide exactly which ones you want and make a wish list. The Bertie Beetle ones are the best, especially since the stopped selling the Bertie Beetle candies in stores. Now you can only get them in the Bertie Beetle Show Bags."

I still don't get it. I do, however, enjoy how many times Sally has just said Bertie Beetle.
"I bet the list is up on the website!"
Sure enough, over a hundred different themed bags to choose from, with every imaginable kind of loot from candy to toys to lingerie to fishing gear.

We peruse the list, oo-ing and ah-ing over the endless options.
I still don't really get it.

Survival Skills

Operation: Prep for Desert Circus Training finds me on a run through the bush near Lucas's house.
Out on these tracks, it's hard to imagine that I'm so close to Sydney. To the end of the street, up the hill, a left turn, and the suburban trappings of Beacon Hill suddenly and completely disappear.

The dusty trails crisscross through dense growth, over craggy rocks, twist, turn, and occasionally open up into fields of mud-sculpted BMX jumps. It's bright and sunny, a warm Australian end-of-winter morning. Best to head back to the house before the sun gets too high.

"I don't remember coming this way."
"Sorry, what was that?"
"I didn't come past any of this stuff when I came up. None of this is familiar."
"... I see."
"How did I miss the turn-off?! There was no off to turn onto!"

I retrace my steps back to the last spot I most definitely recognize. Then forward again along the exact same path, apparently convinced that this time, things will turn out different. They do not.
"What?! No!"

The narrator pinches the bridge of their nose, rubs thumb and forefinger in small circles, while slowly shaking their head. "Now remember: the most important thing about being lost is not to panic."
"I know that."
"Thought it was worth mentioning."
"I'm not panicking."
"Fine."
"I'm not!"

"You seem slightly... agitated, that's all."
"I am agitated! It's hot, I'm thirsty, I don't have my phone, and I have no idea how I got here."
"Um, you ran...?"
"Shut up. Shutup shutupshutupshutupshutUP."

"Have you considered trying one of those three side trails?"
"I hate you."
"You think you hate me."
"..."
"But you don't."
"I think I hate you, then. Why are we even talking?? We don't do this."

The narrator shrugs their shoulders, accenting the gesture with an eyebrow raise and slight half-grimace. I hate the half-grimace. Apathetic bastard.

"Weren't you paying attention? You're always big into describing surroundings; I take it you don't bother remembering any of the shit you go on about."
"Remember?! When there's an endless array of details, textures, sounds, emotions, reactions, and so forth, desperately calling out to be captured?"
"Clearly an essential task."
"Indeed! You were so thoroughly consumed by the sunshine and your musical selection, you can't even recall which way you came. Forget about the rabbit-warren beauty of these tracks, the pungently sweet smell of the wattle trees, the sound of the rocks crunching under your sneakers..."
"Shut up."
"Make me."
"Other people notice things without being plagued by a narrator!"
"Of course they do."
"Arghh."

By this point I have backtracked yet again, and am no closer to my destination. I stand facing the second trail off the main path. I could always get myself back to this point easy enough if it came to that.
"Yes. Because we've been doing oh so well here."
"You are not helping. I wasn't even talking to you, anyway."
"Oh, I see. So you're talking to yourself now? That certainly isn't promising."
"What the...? Who do you... where do... and honestly! How can you even? Argh buu, bah!"

The trail is the correct choice. In fact, as soon as I clear the overgrown entrance (which you would assume I'd remember from the initial time through, but then, you'd be wrong), it comes back to me and I'm home, slurping down water in no time.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Cheats

June 20th

I enrolled in a 6-week voiceover course through The Victorian College of the Arts, part of Melbourne University. Louise, our instructor was great and demanded a lot of us -- including buckets of homework.
The first portion of the course focused on commercial work, not my strongstuit, a fact exacerbated by my total lack of interest in it. Oh sure, some of them were fun, but feedback like "make your voice warmer" left me utterly confounded. Louise was equally perplexed: on my final short commercial read, she said when I'm speaking regularly or telling a story, my voice has the exact "ping" needed for commercial work, but as soon as I read an ad, it disappears. We both gave a "that sucks" shoulder shrug and I sat down.

The following week, we were onto longer reads. Hello. Now we're talking. The dark horse of the class, I came out of nowhere (even with a nasty head cold).
Endurance and maintaining energy levels are what make longer reads difficult, apparently. But talking a lot isn't much of a problem for me. Plus, I have some cheats:
1) I'm quite adept at cold/sight reads and,
2) my family has a great tradition of reading aloud.

The latter goes beyond typical storytime: in my family, whenever there's an article of interest, it will invariably be read aloud in lieu of passing it to the other party. Even if someone is beside me and reading over my shoulder, I will nonetheless read the material to them.

The next week, children's books and characterization. An impressive performance with "Too Loud Lily" -- of course, how can you go wrong with talking hippos?
Pete, however, brought the house down with "Are You My Mother?" I had tried to find a copy of it at the library, but couldn't recall the author [Eastman, again! You wiley thing...] Thankfully, I didn't get it because Pete was amazing. Before he started, he explained he felt the narration needed an English accent. But try as he might practicing at home, his Patrick Stewart sounded more like Bowie. So he went with it.
[David Bowie, if you're following this blog, pleeeaazzzze start recording children's stories; it would be a gift to humanity!]

Bowie as narrator and the Baby Bird in shrill cockney (sounding like Terry Jones of Monty Python when he portrays a woman) had me doubled over, tears streaming down my face. At one point, I think I actually fell off my chair.

But the final week was all mine: the short story.

And in this instance, I cannot claim much of the credit. Sure, I could have picked Alice Munro, but I went for the ultimate cheat: David Sedaris.

Louise and my fellow classmates were shocked and in awe of what they presumed were my skills as a voiceover artist. But no, it was Sedaris. How convenient that such a genius should write in my voice! Because despite the fact that I am not a middle-aged gay man -- nor am I remotely as witty, skilled, observant, incisive, or generally as brilliant -- my voice (in terms of writing) sounds like his.
At least to my ear (isn't that yet another quality of greatness in a writer?).

No, friends: I am not David Sedaris. But man, can I read his shit aloud to an audience!
[Further examples include an impromptu performance for my parents at the Moncton airport and a couple editions of Barkly Bedtime Stories with my housemates.]

***

The idea of "cheats" in the attainment of success.
Some times their use is intentional, like the selection of Sedaris for the voiceover finale. A couple years ago, I choreographed a large group piece, Wake, on the DancEast Young Company. I can confidently say it's one of the best things I've created to date. However, in terms of eliciting an emotional response from the audience, the use of two tracks by Sigur Ros for the last part of the piece was a knowing cheat.

Other times, the cheats can't be helped: I couldn't shake the feeling that the perfect scores I achieved on the map tests in my university history course were undeserved due to the advantage gifted to me by my photographic memory. Same with the 100% I finished my anatomy course with the following year: it wasn't me, it was my freakish memory.

In all cases where cheats have been used, praise feels almost dirty.

***

I clearly remember one particular music class in elementary school, grade 4 or 5. Mrs. Kay Doucette said she would buy a Popsicle for whoever could correctly name the song represented by the music notes on the the board.

I knew right away: Frère Jacques. After all, I had been studying piano with the nuns for a few years and by this point was also taking lessons in sight reading, dictation, and Solfège. I waited, hoping someone else would figure it out, but knowing it was unlikely: we had barely touched on reading music in our weekly hour-long class.
I looked over at Jonathan Doucette. Surely, the music teacher's son would know this!
"Anyone...?"
I put up my hand and answered.

As we walked through the gym back to our classroom on the other side of the school, I thanked Mrs. Doucette, but said I couldn't accept the prize: it wasn't fair.
"Of course it's fair. I said I'd buy a Popsicle for whoever could tell me the song and you did."
"But none of the other kids take music outside of school!"
"Aleza," she said in a tone that meant the argument was closed for debate, "don't look a gift horse in the mouth."

Even at the time, I recall thinking that was a weird expression to say to a kid.

***

Recently, Tisi and I choreographed a duet on stairs to Alice by Pogo. The track is so cool and entrancing, I secretly felt it's a bit of a cheat. However, we neglected to bring the CD when we went to show the people putting the performance together. After explaining the oversight, we did the piece in silence. And they loved it.
I stopped myself short of saying how much more they'll like it with the music.
No. It is a good piece, all on it's own.

Maybe after all these years, it's time to accept the damn Popscicle already.

How Else to Spend a Friday?

July 10th

Leaning against the wall on Swanston and listening to the boys busk, I cast an eye out for Tisi.

Earlier at work, I had been hunting for some excitement and adventure for later, but from what I could gather, there wasn't much happening. Jezza sent a message that he and Michael were playing in the city should the weather hold out; the plan was to have a drink after. Shortly after, a message from Tisi asking about the night's activities. Clearly, I wasn't the only one itching for fun.

Tisi comes bounding up, big smile.
"The guys just got a circus-mobile to go to the desert. Wanna come for some lappies?"

[Lappies is bogan-speak for cruising around the city.]

Tisi is a circus performer, specializing in aerial acts. Over a month ago, she was offered a phenomenal gig: a cultural exchange with a group of circus performers involving a 3-week residency in an indigenous community in central Australia. The group would be driving there and back, an epic journey in itself.
When she initially found out, we flirted with the possibility of me flying out to join in for the return trip and various permutations of that general concept. But more than anything serious, it was far-fetched scheming over morning tea, attempted consolation for our imminent separation.

***

"There they are!"
The guys pull up in an old-style ambulance covered with ladders, a sparkly orange-red paint job, purchased as-is for a couple thousand dollars. I hop into the front seat beside Mort, while Tim and Tisi are in the back, talking through how to outfit it to accommodate everyone. I've met Tim before -- a highly animated, exuberant acrobat of many years -- but never Mort, who's coordinating the project. Neatly trimmed grey beard, dark eyes, straw fedora, oversized peach sweater, and wearing a string of malas around his neck, he has the air of a distinguished former hippie. [Kate recently asked me how circus folk differ from hippies. My conclusion: they're very similar, but circus people don't smell. Or more aptly, they don't smell like hippies.]

A few laps through the main streets of Melbourne, then it's over to the Circus Oz tent. The evening's performance will have just finished and the guys want to catch up with everyone for the post-show schmooze & mingle. Mort takes the ambulance onto the festival grounds, just able to squeeze through the posts that are no doubt in place to prevent vehicle entry and parks beneath the large Ferris wheel. Tisi, ever the diplomat, saunters over to the guys manning the ride and, subtly implying direct affiliation with Circus Oz, asks if it's OK to leave the car there.
"No skin off our nose, luv."

***

Inside the tent, Tisi tracks down someone she knows and succeeds in getting us wine at the performers' significantly discounted rate.

After a little mingling and a little wine, Tisi turns to Mort, "You know, Ali is a fantastic contemporary dancer and experienced performer. She should really come with us to the desert."
"That's right! I am. I... I should!"
Mort gives me a hard look, nodding slightly. "Hmm..."

That was all the encouragement needed. Tisi and I launch into an exhaustive list of every potentially useful skill and experience in my repertoire, including fluency in French and an ability to ride horses. Back and forth we go, an overwhelming barrage of she-can-do-this and I've-done-that-before.

Pause.
Another hard look.
"Can you play the accordion?"
"No. No yet. But I can learn."
Pause.
"You should learn the accordion for your act."
"My old housemate had two and this one time, he had friends over for a jam and 'cause I couldn't play anything other than piano, but there wasn't a piano, he gave me the accordion 'cause it has keys, so I have played one before, but not very well. It's loud, you know? And there's this amazing dancer in Toronto that I'm friends with and she has this accordion band called Hell's Bellows. Isn't that a great name?!" Please please please.

"So. What d'ya think, Mort?" asks Tisi, one hand on her hip, plastic glass of red wine in the other.

Mort nods. "I'll have to talk to Tim and there's really no money in the budget, but yes. Yes, I think so."

***

Tisi is describing the circus-mobile to Rocky, aerialist extraordinaire.
Rocky: "Why does it have ladders?"
Mort: "To go up. Even I know that."

Somehow, we manage to be among the last ones there, shuffling out with the other stragglers.
On the way to the car, Tim muses contentedly on the evening's events. "I got numerous hugs off Ellie tonight. That was cool."

***

Before noon the following day, Tisi has located an accordion (melodian, for accuracy's sake). The day after, she says it seems that Mort is serious about taking me. He likes my energy, is amused by how Tisi and I play off each other, and believes the appearance of the accordion is a sign. Even if it's a melodian.

A week later, talking to Mort on the phone, he tells me that if I cause any trouble, any cause for concern, he will kill me. "I'm not even kidding: any trouble, I will strangle you and leave you on the side of the road. Got it?"

The next day, Tisi is informed that her beloved -- me -- is in.

***

I will be going to Warburton, one of the remotest indigenous communities in Australia. A 10-hour drive from Alice Springs, in Western Australia near the borders of South Australia and the Northern Territory, this is where the last of the tribal Aboriginals lived. In the 1930's, when 3 white men walked out of the desert and into this community, they were the first white people ever seen in Warburton.

I'm running away with the circus to the desert.

I can't wait.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Multiple Choice

July 19th

Please complete this statement by selecting one of the following options.

Aleza Elan Gratian is:
a) teaching herself how to play the accordion.
b) working at The Royal Queensland Show [or Ekka, which is Aussie-speak for Exhibition].
c) running away with the circus to the desert of Central Australia for a residency in an indigenous community.
d) All of the above.

For those of you who selected d), you are correct.
For those of you who didn't, you know better than that, don't you.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Gothic Wear

July 14th

The text reads:
Might you be able to give me a hang fitting the plates to an armoured t-shirt that I am making?


"Who's it from?"
"I... don't really know."

To be fair, I have a hunch. But the name came up as "bendekatov," which is not a name in my phone. Stranger still, the message can't be directly replied to and the number has an 85 country code.

I send a "Definitely, but who is this?" response and chalk it up to a wrong number when it goes unanswered.

The following morning, a call from Ben (who I met in The Play) requesting my assistance with measurements.
He had sent the text using Skype because he's out of phone credit.

***

Ben is from London, specifically Elephant & Castle, although he was born in a van in a desert in Israel. He looks younger than someone in his late-30s, with an impish glint in his eyes. Russian-Israeli, he has that compact stature prevalent in people who've trained extensively in martial arts.

I have no idea what he does. And I've asked. I do know: he's studying theology; trying to run some Qi Gong/Tai Chi/Kung Fu classes; lived in Byron doing the surfer-beach bum thing; was adept at coaching me on diction and accents; and that he generally cracks me up.

Half the time, I believe his overtly mysterious behaviour is all an act and he's actually an accountant.

***

We're on the floor of his room, tracing and cutting out templates for the armor. He’s been getting into the Gothic scene [“And I have to say, it’s not a very big scene here, Ah-Lee.”] and has been improvising costumes/outfits/whatever because he can’t afford to go all out. The project has come out of necessity: “I have no money: how else am I supposed to get the chicks?!”

Ben has done a little metal work in the past – of course he has – and has enlisted the help of a seamstress, a metalwork artist, and apparently, me. I look sceptically at the tiny pixellated photo he’s using as a model: frankly, I don’t see how it’s going to work.
“How can it not work?” he asks upon noticing my telling expression.

The first pectoral piece is measured, cut out, re-sized, altered, and then once satisfactory, thrown into what looks like a laundry hamper.
“Important things go in the bin,” he says without looking up from his work.
“Ah yes, The Bin of Importance.”

Upon making suggestions for the belly piece, I’m encouraged to “Run with it, Ah-Lee.” Ben often adds in the name of the person he’s speaking to, even when there’s no one else around. And Ali comes out a pleasing Ah-Lee in his accent.

“What about the shoulder plates?”
“Not gonna have them.”
“Well, I think it needs them...”

Nearly complete and with the appearance of success, he states: “I can do everything, too,” almost more to himself than to me.
I chuckle a little.
“It’s true,” he adds, with the utmost sincerity.

“Thanks, Ah-Lee – I knew you could help.”
As I ponder what specifically about me could have given him that confidence, “... maybe I’ll start my own line...”

***

Ben has decided to accompany me to the library. Behind me on the bike path, he rings his bell.
“That’s a fine bell.”
“Ye, I found it.”
Ding ding ding
“I like bells on things. That’s why I like churches, I think.”
Ding ding ding-ding ding

***

Ben is telling me about the Asian gangster at the Brunswick Pools who was grilling him about the details and meaning of his very ornate tattoo, a full sleeve that extends onto his chest and back on the left side. The gangster was trying to trip him up, but Ben had designed it himself and knows the symbolism behind each element.

“Knowing the full story,” he tell me, “is good for the head. Martial arts, religion: I like to have my fucking bases covered, Ah-Lee.”

I nod as we ride side by side down the sunny, leaf-strewn street.
I have no idea what he’s talking about.

***

“Maybe I will add shoulder plates.”
“Good, it’ll make you look broader.”
“I don’t want to look too broad.”
“Yes. Yes, you do – that’s the whole point.”

***

All morning, I’ve been excitedly telling Ben about my potential upcoming adventures. He’s reasonably puzzled when he notices I’m leaving the library with A Girl’s Guide to Surfing.
“You’re going surfing in the desert?”

And in that instant, it hits me: I’m as much of a enigma to him as he is to me.
Awesome.

***

A week later, my assistance is requested to finish up the shoulder plates.

“Do you want some juice?”
“What kind?”
“Spinach and coconut.”
“Yes.”
“It’s the closest thing to human blood in the vegetable kingdom.”
“...”
“Check it out on the Internet! I mean, you won’t find the exact proportions, but... it’s the vitamins, and the coconut is similar to plasma...”

My phone rings.
“Hey Mum! Yeah, just over at my friend’s place. He’s making spinach-and-coconut juice. Yes. It’s apparently the closest thing in the vegetable kingdom to human blood... No, he’s not Australian.”
Ben shouts over the juicer: “We’re vegan vampires!!”

My poor mother.

***

Ben has been battling some visa issues. Finally, a few more background details: his residency is sponsored by the Church of England.
“The Church thinks I’m sent from God – how funny is that?! I’m pretty good with the legal stuff. Think it’s the Jew in me. Man, would Popeye be proud of us,” as I'm handed a tall glass of thick green juice. “I’ve had to hack away at everything I get. No one looks at me and says, ‘Here’s a cool guy.’”
“Mmm...”
“Mind you, it’s different for chicks.”
“What?”
“The game of life.”
“Oh.”

“I worry about you a bit.... But you’ll be fine. Your boat will come in. Or at very least, run aground at some point. Yes, Ah-Lee. You are an interesting character.”

Considering the source, a high compliment, indeed.

The New Van

"I don't think this is actually a van; it's a bus," I suggest as we climb into Ian's massive new-to-him vehicle.
"It'll fit 14 once I get all the seat in."
"Looks at this! I can stand back here. It's the size of me. This van is big-ah than my kitchen, " says Dana as she plunks herself into the front seat.

Ian is smoothly maneuvering through the traffic, impressive in this monster, not to mention at night. I tell him as much.
"Yeah, not bad considering I've only been driving for 5 weeks."
"You mean, 5 weeks in Australia? Wow, this is good," fauns Dana.
"No no. Five weeks total. I never drove in Ireland."
Ian does a quick shoulder check and pulls into the left lane, gracefully and without hesitation.

***

"Have you decided on a name?"
"Not yet. Maybe I'll call it Dana..."
"Well, I would be very flattered, but you certainly don't have to do that."
"Maybe Standing Dana?"

***

We're taking Kate back to St. Kilda, cruising along Punt Road.

"I know exactly what I'm gonna do when I get home: have a pitch black shower," announces Kate. "You know, turn off the lights and just stand there under the hot water for... [pause] water-restriction amount of time."

Ian asserts that's the funniest thing Kate has ever said.

Kinglake

June 7th

Lost
One house. Mid-sized, white exterior, large sentimental value.
If found, please return to:
Brad Carson
34 Crestridge Road, Kinglake


"Like the sign," I shout over to Brad, who's rummaging through the centre of his charred-out lot.
"Thanks. Thought it was funny."

Brad lost his house in the bush fires that were raging outside Melbourne when I first arrived in Australia. As did a third of the residents of Kinglake.

It's a sunny Sunday and Brad called in the morning for a drive to see his property, where his house was. Shortly after leaving the city, the road is flanked by stands of blackened tree trunks: I had no idea just how close the fires had been.

Driving through Kinglake, Brad points out various spots, telling amazing stories, people who made it, those who didn't. His two young boys sit in the back seat: the house they lived in with their mom also burned down. Brad built both that house and his own.


And I don't know what to say.
That always seems like a trite, empty, clichéed expression: I don't know what to say. But there are times when that's simply the case; we're struck dumb by unimaginable events.

I'm so rarely at a loss for words.


Brad's attitude and demeanor seem almost at odds with the circumstances. He's positive, happy, upbeat, seemingly carefree. It's not until I see the Lost House sign that I get it: not good, not bad -- it just is.

And I don't have to say anything.
Only bear witness.

***

Later in the afternoon, we head down to the local pub. Brad knows everyone. The small town, country vibe could easily put this place in Albert County (where I'm from). People are chewin' the fat and tellin' tales. I'm instantly drawn into the fold, accepted in the blink of the eye thanks to my status as Brad's guest.

And I can say anything. Because it's not good, it's not bad.
It just is.

Berocca & Bourbon

"Berocca & Bourbon, darling?"
"Don't mind if I do."

It's entirely possible that Berocca -- effervescent vitamin tablets -- exists outside of Australia*. Personally, I had never encountered it before coming here, where it finds a devoted following. Poor Man's Vegetables, as Harrie describes.

We're getting ready for a night out in the city, starting with burlesque at Eurotrash. Tisi has reluctantly put aside the rag rug she's been obsessively working on. Since learning how less than a week ago, she's nearly completed a fair-sized rug. "I just... can't... stop!" has been the refrain of the past few days.

"I'm pretty sure most people take, like, a month or two to finish a whole rug, man."
"I know..."
"So, put down the fabric. Come on, you can do it."
"Oh-kaay," she relents with a sigh.

We have just discovered we can share most clothes, including shoes. I'm taller and proportionately larger than Tisi in all directions, but only to the extent that everything feels like it's shrunkl a touch in the wash.

***

On the bike ride down, Tisi mentions that it's Lesbian Burlesque night: no boys allowed. Sudden relief that Richard had alternate plans and declined my invitation. Can you imagine: "So, I know I invited you out an' everything, but you actually can't come in..."

Tisi has forgotten her phone and is concerned we won't be able to find the bar, since she can't call the people we're meeting for directions. I, however, had looked up the address a few days earlier, and take us straight there. Ah, the practical applications of photographic memory!

Tisi is impressed. She tells me about the many times she's lost and forgotten things: wallets, clothing, phones, keys. Especially keys. She asks if I've seen her tattoo.
When she was 18, loss of keys became such a problem, she spontaneously decided to get a tattoo: Tisi, don't trust your head. Her friend suggested the more direct Don't Forget Your Keys.
Out they marched to the tattoo parlour. A fairly cheap establishment, they didn't have any font templates. So they went back home and, with the help of Microsoft Word, found the perfect font for the reminder.

By this point in the story, we're in the dark club and I'm fiddling with the bag Tisi's lent me, searching for my bike light.
"Impressive drawstring use. I never remember to use the drawstring."
"That may explain why you lose things."
"Hmm... point."

Tisi has pulled the left side of her pants down enough for the bike light to illuminate Don't Forget Your Keys across her hip.
In Times New Roman.

***

The burlesque itself is decent. The first girl out hula-hoops and jumps rope while wearing roller skates. Quite a feat, to be sure, but she's a little stiff as a performer. I lean over and tell Tisi she'd be so much better if she dropped the 70's porn face. Tisi bursts out laughing, "That's what it is!"

***

In between set-ups, we boogie up a storm on the dance floor. A tall, gorgeous blond joins us, overtly trying to make her girlfriend jealous. Tisi and I both agreed the attention is highly flattering and that we are, by far, the hottest couple there, despite being a pair of faux-lesbians.


[*According to Wikipedia, Berocca taken before drinking alcohol is said to prevent hangovers -- which may explain it as Tisi's choice of mix with bourbon. It also does exist outside Australia, but not in North America, kiddos. Sorry.]

Signs, signs, everywhere signs

8 Indications of an Elevated Blood Alcohol Level:

1) Quadrupedal ascension of stairs.
2) Attempted removal of contact lenses 10 minutes after they've been taken out.
3) Illegibility of notes.
4) General lameness of legible notes, considered "golden" while in state of inebriation.
5) Escorting friend on 45 minute walk home after quasi-kidnapping attempt results in her missing the last tram.
6) Refusal of cab fare for return trip at 3am, in the rain, when there's work in a few hours.
7) Chocolate accepted as fuel for return journey.
8) Third attempted removal of contact lenses.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

The Accident

April 28th

I'm in my room when the front door bangs open.

"Is anyone home?!"
"Yeah, what's up?"
I meet Tisi on the landing of the stairs. She latches on with a fierce hug. "I just got hit by a car on my bike."

The BMW had pulled out quick. Jackamo, the 21 year old driver, was in a hurry and not paying attention. Car hit bike and sent Tisi flying backward.

As she fell, she watched her shoes come off her feet and soar through the air in slow-motion before joining her on the ground.

***

She's not feeling too much pain and, remarkably, has only a few scrapes that are quickly cleaned up. Nonetheless, Harrie and I decide a visit to the hospital isn't a bad idea. I grumble that the guy should have taken her directly, what was he thinking. Harrie calls a cab and I make some sweet, milky tea (which someone had recently described to me as sookie-la-la tea).
The cab pulls up, I grab a deck of cards and chess board and we're out the door.

***

Three hours, a game of chess, and several rounds of cards later, the intake nurse who's just come on shift is reviewing everyone's status.
"What happened?"
"I got hit by a car on my bike."
"So, you fell off your bike?"
"Well, I got hit by a car and then I fell off..."
"So. You fell off your bike."
Sigh.
"Yes."

By this point most of the shock and adrenalin has worked through Tisi's system; she's still not feeling any acute pain and decides it's best we go home.

***

I certainly wish my darling housemate hadn't been hit by a car (while on her bike, which she then fell off of, thank you for clarifying, Nurse.)

But on the positive side:
1) Tisi's stiffness lasted only a few days and the scrapes healed up shortly after.
2) Jackamo paid for the nearly $600 worth of repairs to Tisi's bike ("No dramas," as they say here).
3) Tisi and I have been two peas in a pod ever since.

Nothing brings people close together like trauma, sookie-la-la tea, and chess in a hospital waiting room.

The Fig Party

July 8th

I'm sitting in our back garden, soaking up the sunshine. It's very warm today, much more like mid-summer than mid-winter. The only indication of the season is the bare fig tree, its dormancy stark in contrast to the lush green foliage of the nearby trees, ivy, and bamboo.

Our seasonally bountiful fig tree and the rainbow lorikeets that frequent its branches were a major drawing feature when I first came to look at 43 Barkly. In the weeks after moving in, Pitisi and I would brainstorm uses for the seemingly endless crop: stewed figs, fig jams, figs in everything. Figs on the window sill, on the table, everywhere. Tisi even took a huge sack-worth to the produce swap at CERES enviro park, returning with peppers, eggplant, and zucchini.

It was one of Tisi's friends who planted the seed: We should host a fig party.

***

Saturday, April 25th

The day of The Fig Party arrives and the kitchen is a hive of activity: fig pastries, fig brownies, potato salad, mulled wine from scratch, baked figs wrapped in prosciutto and stuffed with goat cheese -- a most decadent delicacy.

I head out back to see if I can help Tisi tidy and set up. But she's not there. I go back inside and ask. No, she should be out there as no one has seen her come in. I look again; the garden is not large and offers little in the way of hiding places.
"Tisi?"
"Yeah?"
There she is, in the upper most branches of the tree, selecting the finest examples of our crop. She swings herself down onto the 7ft high wall, and arms ladden with fruit, carefully balances her way across. I can't help but have images of Anne of Green Gables walking across the roof and think that, should this venture end similarly with a tumble, there won't be much of a party after.

But Tisi is confident and all smiles, looking ever so slightly like a dark-haired Shirley Temple: curly-mopped, freckled and dimpled, with a distinct mischievous glint in her eye. (Is it any wonder I derive great pleasure teaching her to tap dance in the kitchen? If only I could get her to sing On The Good Ship Lollipop...)

She clambers down onto the milk crate precariously balanced on a step ladder without hesitation.

***

The party is a great success: an afternoon replete with delectable conversation and delicious food. My friend Maya is completely glowing, floating on a cloud of bliss: the object of her affection is arriving in Melbourne in a few days. Her joy is infectious.

It starts to drizzle just as there's talk of moving indoors. The majority of our guests live south of the Yarra, which presents itself as a mental barrier to some. But as one of Tisi's friends so aptly puts:
"I don't often cross the river, but I love it when I do."


43 Barkly proved itself worthy of river-crossing.
May it be the first of many.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Mick Dundee and Other Tales

Today's lunch took much planning to co-ordinate; the Sudoku of Dates.

Kate is telling us that her friend Dan met Paul "Crocodile Dundee" Hogan on a flight to Darwin. They hit it off -- "Everyone likes Dan," says Kate -- and Paul Hogan gave Dan his phone number, with instructions to call.

So, Dan did.

Mr. Dundee asked him to call back later: he couldn't talk long because he was in the bush, hunting feral crocs.

Sometimes, I wonder why I've stayed in Melbourne so long...

***

Maggie, Kate's friend from home, is also in Melbourne. Maggie was on her way to meet a guy for a date. While waiting at the corner for the lights to change, an older very drunk man starts chatting to her. He then asks if she'd like to go out with him. Maggie politely declines and adds, "I admire your guts."

Just then, the light changes. She's midway through the intersection, when the drunk -- who had obviously misheard her -- yells at top volume, "I AM NOT A GOAT!"

Well, Maggie found this hilarious, and was still laughing when she met her date. The date did not see anything funny about the incident. At all.
Maggie went to the washroom to compose herself. As she sat through the rest of dinner, she could only think one thing: "This certainly isn't going to work."

***

Kate recently found out that Rick, her favorite fabulously flamboyant regular is Rick Stein, who wrote for Seinfeld. He's taken a real shine to her.

Recently, he marched straight up her at work and said something along the lines of, "You're a beautiful girl, but your make-up is terrible. So, I got you this."
Out comes a little bag of Prada make-up.

"Every girl should own Prada, darling."

And what was the highlight of my work day, you ask?
I got to speak French to a woman from Mauritius.

At least I'm making $21 an hour.

Lunch with the Girls

May 6th

Dana and I are standing outside a café on Acland Street in St. Kilda. While waiting for Kate, we've been perusing the various menus, in search of the optimal lunch deal. Dana is grumpy -- a highly unusual state for her -- and has just asked me what a "minute steak" is. My "not sure" artfully accented by shoulder-shrug response is entirely unsatisfactory.

"Ah-nee, English eez your mother tongue: why do you not know what this means?"
"Easy there, short stuff. I assume it's small, you know -- cooked in a minute?"

But I've already lost my cred.

When Kate turns up a little later and gives the same answer with authority, Dana nods, "Ah, got it."
"Hey, I just said that!"
Half-smile from Dana.
Kate: "Ace. Now luvs, where we going? I need a MA-ssive coffee..."

***

The three of us met at the Ghost House on Wellington. Kate and Dana were sharing a room, having arrived at our dodgy digs about two months before me. Kate moved out shortly after I did, and Dana a month later when the house was condemned (how awesome is that?!).

74 Wellington may have been a slum -- eg: Dana battled an unidentifiable skin ailment that sent her to the hospital 3 times, only to have it clear up days after leaving -- but add Gina and Ian to the mix (who now live in the suburb over from me) and that house introduced me to four amazing people I now consider family. I count my astounding good fortune every time I see them.
[Just writing this gets me a little verklempt.]

***

Since moving out of Wellington, we make a point of meeting up once a week, typically for a marathon-length lunch. As we sit chatting, I can't help wondering if any of the people around us pick up on our international flavor: Kate from Ireland, Dana from Italy, and me as the North American representative.

We could be at a café anywhere.

***

Kate is giving us a dose of celebrity sightings:

Lindsay Lohan out shopping with two huge bodyguards.
Dana, between drags of her cigarette: "I would like to have bodyguards... but no one bothers me."

Eric Bana buying a magazine bearing him on the cover.
Dana: " I would like to buy a magazine with a picture of myself on it."

[Upon a later retelling, I'm informed that Bana, an Aussie, has no publicist and does all that end of the business himself. Which would include buying articles featuring himself from the corner store.]

You Can't Fool the Camera

June 22nd

Dana is waiting for me at the corner of Elizabeth and LaTrobe, arms tightly wrapped to brace against the cold.

"Sorry, ah-nee, but tha place eez closed."
Dana is from Venice. She often calls me honey, which comes out as ah-nee. (She's also taken to saying, "Love you long time" when we part company, I assume because it nearly kills me every time she does.)

It's been over a week since we've seen each other -- practically unheard in the three months we've known each other -- and the plan was to meet in the city and catch up over cheap wine. It was, in fact, over cheap wine on Chapel Street that we first bonded, back in March. "$3 a glass?! Ah-nee, I mean, ca-mon!"

I mean, ca-mon! is another favorite, as is her habit of saying "blah" exactly 9 times in quick succession, although of late I've noticed she occasionally abbreviates this to 4.
["Come on" or "ca-mon" became something of a joke the summer I worked in an Italian restaurant nearly 10 years ago, as it was Chef Morau's most frequently used phrase. By far. Maybe it's an Italian thing.]

"Well, what do you think?"
It's 10:45pm on a Monday: our closest options are limited to a noisy sports bar and an overpriced hostel pub.
No promise of cheap wine in sight.

"Listen, ah-nee: I have a bottle of wine in my bag."
"Perfect. So do I.

Not that we typically carry bottles of wine around with us. Dana picked up groceries after work on the way to meet me -- as an Italian, wine qualifies as a staple. I had been at Sally's for dinner, not that I usually take leftover wine with me, but she was leaving for China in two days and insisted. How lucky for us.

***

And so we find ourselves on a bench outside the Queen Victoria Markets, bathed in the glow of a street light, our fast-paced frenetic conversations interrupted only by swigs from the bottles.

Not long after settling in, a security guard walks by. We see him approaching and, without missing a beat, the wine is tucked away. A polite nod-and-smile and, after he's gone, we heartily congratulate ourselves for our quick-thinking deception under pressure.

And the wine's back out.

Round two: Dana gets creative with some planted evocative questions as the security guard comes by about 10 minutes later. When the coast is clear, she tells me it was to throw off suspicion. I'm impressed by her style.

The third time, I take it upon myself to comment on how late it's getting, we should think about going.

By the fourth time around -- one bottle down and the second well on its way -- we go the uproarious laughter route. Because clearly nothing speaks higher to one's innocence.
That's the wine's theory in such matters. Needless to say, wine rarely knows what the hell it's talking about.

Our performance at this point is abysmally amateurish, so imagine our surprise when again the guard keeps moving without pause or comment.
Brilliant. Obviously, this demonstrates we are above reproach.

Round five and neither of us are fazed.

"How much longer do you ladies think you'll be here," the guard asks, standing across from us at what feels like an unnecessarily far distance, as though we may have foreign cooties.

"Oh gosh, not much longer... we both have to work in the morning and it's getting late," I say with biggest eyes, in sweetest voice.

"It's fine, but can you move to that bench over there?"
"Um... OK?"
"Just 'cause of the camera."

I look to where he's pointing: a surveillance camera angled directly at our well-lit bench.

***

I have to say, top marks go to this guard for his out-of-sight/out-of-mind approach to security (almost Canadian).

Hopefully, our ridiculous and hilariously transparent charade brightened his night.